Live from Schoodic Woods

I’m currently sitting at a picnic table at site A29 in the “new” Schoodic Woods Campground.  In the early 2000s, a 3,200-acre tract of forest on the Schoodic Peninsula was being considered for development as a large resort with a hotel, golf course, sports facilities, and luxury villas, but in 2011, an anonymous conservation-minded buyer purchased the property through Schoodic Woods LLC.

This little bastard stole 75% of the paper trash that I’d put in my fire pit to burn tonight.

Rather than allowing the resort project to proceed, much of the land was set aside for conservation. A 1,400- to 1,500-acre portion south of Route 186 was eventually donated for inclusion in Acadia National Park, leading to the creation of Schoodic Woods Campground, which opened in September, 2015.

I arrived yesterday at noon and spent an hour or so getting the tent and fly set up.  Truth be told, the fly isn’t really set up.  I didn’t have trees in the right spots to attach it to, so I’ve got it propped up on two telescoping poles and bungie-corded to the table – but it’s doing its job, which is to keep rain off of the table (and me), although I haven’t seen any rain yet.

Had some bourbon last night and slept like a dead man after three hard days of driving.  I think I got in the sack at around 8 and I woke up just about 12 hours later.  THIS is why I go camping by myself once or twice a year.  Sleep.

After a slow morning (had a couple cups of coffee and scratched myself), I set off to see what was around me.  Walked along a bike trail to Wonsqueak Harbor and back (round trip was around 6 miles, and the harbor was quiet and not particularly photogenic) and then convinced myself to go to Winter Harbor and buy some ice, hotdogs (and buns), and a sandwich (which I ate for lunch, and it was fantastic).  I must admit that the ice was mainly for my bourbon, but it’s pulling double duty and keeping the hot dogs cold.  I may eat them for dinner tonight, or I may have them for lunch tomorrow.  Hell, I may throw them into the woods and see if bears visit me.

After eating and watching a few highlight reels from yesterday’s college football games, I went for another walk on the South Harbor Trail, which – unlike the bike trail this morning – was an actual hike.  It had more exposed roots than should be allowed, a lot of ankle-breaking rocks, steep up and down grades, etc.  Having been lulled to sleep by the morning walk, I opted not to wear my hiking boots this afternoon and did the rough hike in sneakers.  Bad plan.  My ankle now hurts.  But I enjoyed it, and it had some truly beautiful scenery.

Because Schoodic Woods is the only portion of the park that’s located on the mainland (and because it’s only 11 years old), the tourist population here is minute compared to the rest of the park.  I didn’t have to deal with a great deal of traffic getting here, and so far in my hikes I’ve seen a grand total of 4 other people on the trails.

The sites in the campground are relatively close together, but the undergrowth and abundance of trees make each site quite private.  I can *hear* other campers around me, but I can’t see them unless I try to – and I don’t try to.  Additionally, there is NPS-provided WiFi throughout the campground, which is very nice to have.  I do have a VPN active on both my phone and the tablet that I’m typing this on – no reason to take chances.

Other nice things about being in a new campground: The bathrooms are nice.  Clean, dry, don’t smell like campground bathrooms.  There are dishwashing stations outside of each bathroom.  Not a spigot that says, “Don’t wash your dishes here,” but an outside sink with a bear-proof container next to it for food scraps, and a bottle of Dawn detergent on the sink.  There are trails for foot traffic (hiking), and for bike and foot traffic (crushed gravel) – and there are a LOT of said trails.  I got in 13 miles today on just two of them.  The nearby town of Winter Harbor has devoted itself to supporting the campground, with several Maine-centric eateries, a very nice grocery/supply store, and plenty of places selling firewood.

In short, this place is a gem.  I may rethink my, “It’s gotta be Michigan” attitude for fall camping.  Michigan is *closer* to me, and my Michigan campsites are closer to the water – but this place is extremely nice, and I could see myself visiting again, perhaps somewhat regularly.

I believe this is called “South Harbor” and it was the midpoint of a 7-mile hike that I took this afternoon